Golf Terms
& Club Guide

The expected number of strokes to complete a hole or course. Par 3 = short hole, Par 4 = medium, Par 5 = long. A full 18-hole course is usually Par 70–72.

1 stroke over par. Most recreational golfers average bogey golf (shooting around 90 on a par-72 course).

2 or 3 strokes over par. Common for high handicappers on difficult holes.

1 stroke under par on a hole. E.g. finishing a Par 4 in 3 shots. Very good score.

A numerical measure of a golfer's skill. Lower = better. Scratch = 0 handicap (plays to par). High handicap = beginner/casual. Used to level competition between different skill levels.

Gross = total actual strokes. Net = gross minus handicap strokes. Competition usually uses net score to make it fair.

Points-based scoring. Birdie = 4pts, Par = 2pts, Bogey = 1pt, Double bogey+ = 0pt. Most popular weekend competition format in Malaysia.

Scramble (Texas/Ambrose) = all players hit, team picks best shot, everyone plays from there. Repeat until holed. Best Ball = each plays own ball, best score on hole counts. Both very common in corporate and charity tournaments in Malaysia.

Count total strokes for all 18 holes. Lowest score wins. Most common competition format.

A golf course has 18 holes. Holes 1–9 = front nine. Holes 10–18 = back nine. "Playing 9" means just one half.

Ball goes directly into the hole from the tee shot. Extremely rare. Usually on Par 3 holes.

A player with 0 handicap — expected to shoot par on any course. Elite recreational level. When a customer says "I'm scratch," they are very serious and experienced. Treat with high product knowledge.

Win individual holes instead of counting total strokes. Win the most holes = win the match. Used in team competitions.

2 strokes under par. E.g. finishing a Par 5 in 3 shots. Rare and impressive.

All Square = tied score in match play. Dormie = a player is up by as many holes as remain (e.g. 3-up with 3 to play) — they cannot lose, only tie.

Course Rating = expected score for a scratch golfer on that course (e.g. 72.1). Slope Rating = difficulty for a bogey golfer vs scratch (55–155, avg 113). Higher slope = harder course. Both affect how handicap strokes are calculated.

A handicap better than 0 (e.g. +2). Player typically scores under par. Usually semi-pro or elite amateur level. Very rare among recreational golfers.

3 strokes under par on a hole. E.g. finishing a Par 5 in just 2 shots. Extremely rare — most golfers never achieve one in their lifetime.

Uncontrolled severe curve to the right (right-handers). Most common miss for beginners. Often caused by open club face at impact.

The first shot on any hole, hit from the teeing area. Usually a driver on Par 4/5 holes.

Rolling the ball along the green toward the hole using a putter. No loft, purely about distance and direction.

Fat = club hits the ground before the ball (chunks). Thin = club catches ball too high (low, hard shots). Both are common beginner errors.

A shot aimed at landing on or near the green. Usually played with irons or wedges from 50–200 yards out.

Short, low shot near the green — the ball rolls more than it flies. Played with a 7–9 iron or wedge.

Short, high shot near the green — the ball flies more than it rolls. Played with wedges (PW, SW).

Club strikes the top half of the ball instead of the bottom. Ball rolls along the ground with no height. Also called a "worm burner." Usually caused by lifting the head or body during swing.

Uncontrolled severe curve to the left (right-handers). Opposite of a slice. Caused by closed club face.

A controlled shot that curves slightly right-to-left (for right-handed golfers). Generally adds distance. Considered a preferred ball flight.

A controlled shot that curves slightly left-to-right (for right-handed golfers). More accurate, less distance than a draw.

Taking 3 strokes to hole out on the green — always results in a bogey or worse. Most golfers 3-putt because of poor distance control on long putts. Good angle to sell quality putters.

Getting the ball into the hole in 2 shots from off the green — one chip/pitch + one putt. "He made an up-and-down to save par." A key short game skill. Good for selling wedges and putters.

Intentionally hitting a shorter shot to avoid a hazard or position for the next shot. E.g. hitting an iron instead of wood to stay short of a water hazard. Smart course management, not a bad shot.

Break = the curved path a putt takes due to the slope of the green. Reading the green = analyzing slope, grain, and speed before putting. Skilled putters "play the break" — aiming away from the hole to account for curve.

Ball struck by the hosel (neck) of the club, shooting sideways. One of the most dreaded mishits in golf.

Backward rotation on the ball that makes it stop quickly — or even roll back — after landing. Achieved with clean contact on a grooved iron/wedge face. Wet or worn grooves reduce spin. "That shot spun back 3 feet" = high skill shot. Great talking point when selling wedges.

Low-trajectory chip shot that lands short of the green and rolls to the hole. Preferred in firm, dry conditions.

Hitting out of a greenside bunker. The club (SW) enters the sand 2–3 inches behind the ball — sand explodes and lifts the ball out. You don't actually hit the ball directly. Open face, full swing.

A long putt where the goal is to get close to the hole rather than make it — to avoid 3-putting.

A low, controlled shot played with a shorter swing — keeps the ball under tree branches or cuts through wind. Hands lead through impact, ball flight is flat and boring (intentionally).

Ball shoots straight up with almost no distance — usually with driver. Caused by hitting under the ball at a steep angle. Often leaves a crown mark on the top of the driver head. Very embarrassing miss.

A shot with no curve — flies directly at the target. Actually rare to achieve consistently. Square clubface at impact + neutral swing path produces a straight ball. Many pros prefer a controlled draw or fade over straight.

High, soft lob shot using a lob wedge (LW). Used to clear obstacles (bunker edge, rough fringe) and land softly near pin.

How much the shaft bends during swing. L (Lady) → A (Senior) → R (Regular) → SR (Stiff Regular) → S (Stiff) → X (Extra Stiff). Faster swing = stiffer flex needed. Critical for distance and accuracy.

The angle of the club face. Higher loft = ball goes higher and shorter. Lower loft = longer, lower ball flight. Measured in degrees (°).

Graphite = lighter, more flex, easier to swing, suits seniors/ladies/beginners. Steel = heavier, more control, preferred by better players. Graphite shafts cost more.

Cavity Back = hollowed back, weight distributed to edges, more forgiving, for beginners/mid handicappers. Blade/Muscle Back = solid, thin, better feel, for low handicap/pros.

How well a club performs on off-center hits. High MOI (Moment of Inertia) = more forgiving. Key selling point for beginners. Larger club heads are generally more forgiving.

The rubber/cord handle at top of the shaft. Grips wear out and need replacing — a regrip service adds value. Standard, midsize, and jumbo sizes available.

The channels cut into the club face of irons and wedges. Grooves grip the ball at impact to create backspin. Worn/flat grooves = less spin = ball doesn't stop on the green. Heavily worn grooves lower the value of used wedges significantly — always check.

The exact center of the club face — where contact produces maximum distance and control with minimal vibration. Hitting the sweet spot feels effortless. Larger club heads have a bigger effective sweet spot area. Key selling point for forgiving clubs.

Square = face pointing directly at target — ideal. Open = face angled right of target (causes fade/slice). Closed = face angled left of target (causes draw/hook). Face angle at impact is the #1 factor controlling ball direction.

The far end of the club head — the tip furthest from the shaft. A toe strike means the ball hit the outer edge of the face. Causes loss of distance, ball tends to go left (right-handers). Common miss for players standing too close to the ball.

The part of the club head closest to the shaft/hosel. A heel strike means the ball hit the inner edge of the face. Causes ball to go right and lose distance. Extreme heel contact = shank (hits the hosel). Common miss for players standing too far from the ball.

Sets typically sold as 5-PW (6 clubs) or 4-PW (7 clubs). Some include GW. Most sets exclude the 1, 2, 3 iron — too hard to hit. Customer buys separate wedges (SW, LW) to complete short game.

2-piece = hard ionomer cover, low spin, maximum distance, durable. Best for beginners. (e.g. Titleist DT TruSoft, Callaway Supersoft). 3-piece / Multi-layer = softer urethane cover, higher spin, more feel/control. Best for better players. (e.g. Titleist Pro V1, TaylorMade TP5). Better ball = higher buy-in relevance if customer trades in a bag of Pro V1s.

The socket/neck on the club head where the shaft connects. Modern drivers have adjustable hosels to change loft and lie. Shanks happen when ball hits the hosel.

Modern drivers let you change loft (±2°), face angle, and weight distribution using a special wrench. Movable weights in the sole shift the center of gravity — heel weight promotes draw, toe weight promotes fade. Always note if a driver comes with its original wrench — it adds value.

When the face is set back behind the hosel. Helps golfers who slice — gives more time to square the face. Common in beginner iron sets.

The angle between the leading edge and the sole of the wedge. High bounce = better for soft turf/sand. Low bounce = better for firm turf/tight lies. Important for wedge selection.

Standard driver length = 45–45.5". Standard men's iron = 37–38" for 5-iron. Taller players may need longer clubs (+0.5" to +1"). Very tall or short customers may need custom length. A used club can be cut shorter or extended. Affects distance and control.

Small wooden or plastic peg pushed into the ground to elevate the ball for tee shots. Only used on the tee box. Driver tee = high (half the ball above club face). Iron/wood tee = low (ball just off grass). Sold in standard and long lengths.

Protective cover for club heads — usually for driver, woods, and putters. Protects the club face from scratches and dings during transport.

Leading Edge = the front bottom edge of the club face — what contacts turf first. Sole = the bottom of the club head that rests on the ground. Crown = the top of a driver or wood head. Knowing these parts helps when inspecting used clubs for damage.

The angle between the club shaft and sole. Important for accuracy — wrong lie angle causes shots to miss left or right consistently.

How heavy a club feels during the swing — measured on a scale (C9, D0, D1, D2 etc). Higher letter/number = heavier feel. Most standard men's clubs are D0–D2. Affects tempo and feel. Customers upgrading from lightweight seniors clubs to heavier stiff-shaft clubs will feel the difference.

The small plastic/composite ring/collar at the junction of shaft and hosel. Purely cosmetic — no structural function. A cracked or missing ferrule is common on used clubs. Easy and cheap to replace during reshafting.

The short-cut grass between the tee and the green. Ideal place for the ball to land after a tee shot. Best playing surface.

Very short, smooth grass surface where the hole (flagstick/pin) is located. All putting is done on the green.

Longer, thicker grass bordering the fairway. Harder to hit from — reduces distance and control. Primary (light) and secondary (heavy) rough.

A depression filled with sand. A penalty area that requires a sand wedge to escape. One of the main challenges on a golf course.

Outside the course boundary (marked by white stakes). Penalty: stroke & distance (replay from original spot, add 1 shot). Most severe penalty in golf.

Lakes, rivers, or ponds on the course. Ball landing in water = penalty stroke (1 shot added, ball replayed from a drop zone).

The starting area for each hole. Multiple sets of tees: Blacks/Blues (pro/low hcp), Whites (men), Reds/Yellows (seniors/ladies). Longer course = harder.

The pole with a flag in the center of the hole on the green. Shows where the hole is from a distance. Also called "the flag."

A person who carries a golfer's bag and gives advice on club selection, distances, and course strategy. Very common at Malaysian golf clubs. A caddie knows course conditions well — customers may reference what their caddie told them about their clubs.

Electric or petrol-powered vehicle used to travel between holes on the course. Standard at most Malaysian courses. Bags are strapped to the back — relevant when customers ask about bag straps, cart-compatible bags, or strap clips.

How the ball sits on the ground. Good lie = ball sitting up cleanly. Bad lie = buried in rough or divot. Affects club and shot selection.

A chunk of turf displaced when iron strikes the ground. Players should replace divots (etiquette). Ball landing in someone's divot = bad lie.

A practice facility where golfers hit balls at distance targets. Many customers come from the range or use SAG clubs specifically for range practice. Range balls are harder and fly shorter than normal balls — a common caveat to mention.

Distance markers on the course showing how far to the center of the green. Coloured posts: red = 100y, yellow = 150y, white = 200y (varies by course). GPS watches and rangefinders give more precise distances — popular accessories for serious golfers.

The short grass immediately surrounding the green — slightly longer than putting surface but shorter than fairway. Players can putt from here.

The indentation left on the green when a ball lands from a high approach shot. Players must repair their ball marks with a divot tool (pitch repairer). Unrepaired marks create uneven putting surfaces — a key etiquette rule.

Each hole on a scorecard is ranked 1–18 by difficulty (SI 1 = hardest, SI 18 = easiest). In handicap competitions, a player receives their extra strokes on the lowest SI holes first. E.g. a 10-handicap gets 1 extra shot on holes SI 1–10.

Pro Shop = the retail shop inside or at a golf club, selling equipment, apparel, and accessories. SAG competes with pro shop pricing. Clubhouse = the main building at a golf course — locker rooms, restaurant, reception, and pro shop.

A hole where the fairway bends left or right (like a dog's leg). Requires golfers to shape their tee shot or lay up before the bend.

Links = coastal, windy, firm ground, minimal trees, natural terrain (e.g. Scottish courses). Parkland = tree-lined, lush green fairways, softer ground — most Malaysian courses are parkland style. Different courses reward different club setups.

How fast the putting surface rolls, measured in "stimp." Low stimp (6–8) = slow, easy to putt. High stimp (10–13) = fast, tournament-level. Slow greens = upright putters work better. Fast greens = face-balanced mallets preferred. Useful when advising on putter selection.

If a ball cannot be found within 3 minutes of searching, it is declared lost. Player must take stroke-and-distance penalty — return to where they last played and add 1 penalty stroke. Very common situation — highlights value of playing a provisional ball first.

An extra stroke added to the score as punishment for rule violations (ball in water, OB, lost ball, etc.). Usually 1 or 2 penalty strokes.

In friendly/casual play — a very short putt that opponents concede (allow player to pick up without putting). Official stroke play = no gimmes; you must hole out.

An unofficial "redo" for a bad shot — common in casual/fun rounds. Not allowed in official competitions. Some charity events sell mulligans as fundraisers.

When a ball must be lifted and re-placed. A free drop has no penalty (e.g. ball near sprinkler head). A penalty drop adds a stroke (e.g. water hazard).

A second ball played if the original might be lost or OB. Saves time — if original is found, provisional is abandoned. If not found, provisional counts with penalty.

When a player decides their ball is in an unplayable position (e.g. against a tree, in thick bush). Player declares it unplayable and takes a 1-stroke penalty, then drops within 2 club-lengths, behind the spot, or goes back to where they last played.

A local rule allowing players to lift, clean, and place the ball within a set distance (usually 6 inches) on the fairway — activated when course conditions are poor (mud, heavy rain). Common in Malaysian courses during monsoon season. Not used in official competition.

Expectation to keep the round moving. A round of 18 should take ~4 to 4.5 hours for a four-ball. Slow play is the #1 complaint at golf courses.

An informal agreement to play whenever ready — rather than strictly following honour/furthest-from-hole order — to speed up pace of play. Widely practised in casual Malaysian rounds. Polite and practical.

Temporary accumulation of water on the course (e.g. after rain — puddles on fairway). Player gets a free drop (no penalty) to the nearest point of relief. Common in Malaysian wet season rounds.

Number of players in a group. Foursome (4 players) is the standard group size. Twosome moves fastest. "Foursome" also refers to a specific format where partners share one ball.

The right to tee off first on a hole. Given to player with lowest score on previous hole. On the first hole, determined by draw or agreement.

An area of the course marked (usually white lines or blue stakes) as being repaired — e.g. construction area, area re-turfed. Ball in GUR = free drop to nearest point of relief. No penalty.

NR = player did not complete or submit a scorecard — disqualified from competition. WD = Withdrew before or during the round (injury, personal reason). Both result in no score for that round in handicap calculations.

Customer brings their old clubs for SAG to assess and buy/exchange. SAG offers a buy-in price based on condition, brand, and resale potential. Core of SAG's business model.

Common grading: A/Mint = near new, barely played. AB = light use, minor marks. B = normal play wear. BC = visible wear but functional. C = heavy use, scuffs. Affects pricing significantly.

Premium: Titleist, Callaway, TaylorMade, Ping, Mizuno, Cobra, Srixon/Cleveland. Value: Honma, XXIO (Japan popular). Budget: Confidence, Wilson. Brand affects resale value significantly.

The amount SAG pays a customer for their used clubs. Internal price — not shown to customers. Must leave margin for SAG's selling price and profit.

Replica clubs that look like premium brands but are not genuine. Very common in the used golf market. Red flags: unusually low price, blurry logos, wrong font on markings, lightweight feel, poor finish quality. SAG should not knowingly buy or sell fakes. Always inspect suspicious items carefully.

Left-handed (LH) vs Right-handed (RH) clubs. Most golfers are RH. LH clubs are harder to sell — smaller market. Factor into buy-in price for LH clubs.

Preferred sales terminology for used golf equipment. "Pre-owned" and "pre-loved" sound better than "used" or "second-hand" — reduces buyer hesitation. SAG's entire business model is built on the pre-owned market. Always frame it positively to customers.

Regrip = replace worn grip on club handle. Reshaft = replace the shaft (more complex, higher value service). Both are common add-on services at golf shops.

How fast the club head travels at impact — measured in mph or km/h. Determines shaft flex and driver loft needed. Guide: Under 70mph = L/Senior flex; 70–85mph = Regular; 85–95mph = Stiff; 95mph+ = X-Stiff. Customers often don't know their speed — use distance as a proxy (driver carry under 180y = slower swing).

Japan spec clubs are made for the Asian market — often lighter shafts, shorter lengths, softer feel. US spec = designed for Western market. Japan spec often preferred by Malaysian/Asian golfers. Can affect buy-in value.

A full bag package — usually Driver + Fairway Wood + Irons + Wedges + Putter, sometimes with a bag. Popular for new golfers. SAG can bundle used clubs for this.

Forged = shaped from a single piece of steel under pressure. Softer feel, more feedback, preferred by better players (e.g. Mizuno MP series). Cast = molten metal poured into a mould — harder, more consistent, better for distance and forgiveness. Most beginner/mid irons are cast. Forged irons carry higher buy-in value.

A club available for customers to test-swing before buying. Important for closing sales — letting a customer hit a club builds confidence to buy. Manage demo clubs carefully — they are used stock and should remain in good condition.

A matched set = all irons from same brand/model (more valuable, easier to sell as set). Single irons = individual clubs. Some customers buy singles to fill gaps in their set.

BNIB = Brand New In Box. NIB = New In Box. Club is unused, still in original packaging with all accessories (wrench, head cover, manual). Commands the highest resale price. Verify the seal is unbroken and contents are complete before pricing.

A club head sold without a shaft — customer buys separately and gets it assembled. Common for irons and wedges where golfers want to custom-build. Lower buy-in than a fully assembled club. Note clearly in stock description to avoid customer confusion.

Items sitting in inventory for a long time without selling. Ties up capital. SAG tracks days-in-inventory to identify these. May need price reduction to move.

Customer leaves their club at SAG to sell on their behalf. SAG takes a commission when sold. SAG doesn't pay upfront — lower risk but different from outright buy.

The two-part adhesive used to bond the shaft into the hosel during assembly or reshafting. Must cure 24 hours before play. If a shaft is loose or rattles in the head, the epoxy has failed — common fault to check in trade-in clubs.

Some customers request personalised stamps (name/initials) on wedges or irons. Custom fitting (shaft, grip, lie angle adjustments) is a premium service some shops offer.

When installing a new shaft, it can be trimmed from the tip (plug end that goes into hosel — stiffens the shaft) or the butt (top, grip end — shortens club length). Trimming amount affects final flex. Relevant for reshaft services and custom builds.